THURSDAY, JUNE 27

THURSDAY, JUNE 27:

     Arrived at the Sitka Historical National Park at 9:00 to go on a tour with a Park Ranger.  This park is simply called Totem Park by the locals, as that’s what it’s best known for.  There are 18 totem poles here, situated beautifully amidst the rainforest on a 2-mile loop.  They were originally collected from all over Southeast Alaska, and then toured the U.S., debuting in 1904 at the St. Louis World’s Fair.  So a nice connection there.  The first superintendent of the park was very interested in Native culture and wanted to acquaint the U.S. with it.  After two years on the road, the totem poles ended up here, and the Park Superintendent designed their graceful placement.  Some consider it to be the finest collection anywhere.

     As always, we learned a lot effortlessly from the young Forest Service ranger.  She reiterated what we had previously learned about the intent, meaning, and design of totem poles in general.  They can depict family history, similar to a Coat of Arms, or a certain episode in the life of a clan, similar to monuments, or traditional legends and stories. Rarely, if ever, were they used to invoke or worship spirits.  If used spiritually, they would be similar to our stained glass windows, used to help us remember and commemorate, but not as object of worship themselves.  Many of the American Protestant missionaries misunderstood this when they arrived in the late 19^th century after the Russians left, and insisted that they be destroyed.  Alienation resulted, and aided the growth of the Orthodox branch of Christianity, rather than the Protestant branch, among the Natives.  I believe that Sheldon Jackson was a notable exception.    The ranger also shared what she knew of each individual pole, although she acknowledged that often there were just unknowns, if there were no narrative attached to a particular totem pole when it was first collected.

     This may have been the prettiest setting we’ve seen yet for totem poles.  The trail through the old growth Rainforest was really lovely.  And it was a quintessential Temperate Rainforest morning – cool, dampish, and overcast.  Perfectly lovely in its own way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked more trails than just the Totem loop . . . passed by plaques commemorating both Tlingit and Russian deaths in the battle fought here in 1804. 

 

 

 

Crossed over a river which will be filled with thousands of spawning salmon swimming uphill in a few weeks.

 

 

  Passed fantastical shapes of rotting cedar - almost artistic.

 

 

Spied an immature bald eagle sitting in a tree keeping a lookout for a tasty snack. 

At one point, we both heard and felt a whoosh above us, then a commotion . . . looked over, and two eagles were fighting . . . . not sure over what . . . but it looked as if the one eagle was holding the other either with its talons or in its mouth.  Lots of eagle cries.  Then the one evidently freed himself . . . saw him fly off.  No time to catch a pcture. 

    Was time to go into town for a Music Festival free noon concert (chamber music).  Featured a Brahms solo piano piece, a Schumann piece for piano and cello, and a Beethoven piece for piano, cello, and violin.   All were excellent, especially the piano solo, which Bill pronounced superb and said he’d have paid good money to have heard.  Again, with a backdrop of the sea, mountains, and a docked cruise ship, doesn’t get much better!

 

 

     Returned to the Totem Park – Bill wanted to grab some more pictures for use with his Non-Western Music class at Lindenwood this fall.  The tide was out, and left an impressionistic landscape of water, tidal area, river.   

 

The newest totem in the park was commissioned for the National Park’s Centennial in 2010, crafted by Sitka Native carver Tommy Joseph.  It has a distinct modern look to it, especially the bright green, which represent the 116 acres of the Tongass Na’tl Forest making up the Park.

 

     Came home, relaxed, read outside in the now-clear sky & waning sun.  Grilled chicken & zucchini for dinner.  There’s a fenced area here, so we let Pappy off the leash and let him run to his heart’s content.  He’s something to see when he runs!  He is the best dog to take with us on our travels . . . very little trouble, always greets us so happily when we return from our day’s adventure, jumps in the back seat of the truck when it’s time to move on, and promptly goes to sleep.

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