SUNDAY
& MONDAY, AUG 25 & 26:
These
were the Denali days we had been waiting for!
Gorgeous clear, sunny days! Have
I mentioned that when the skies are clear in Alaska, there’s nothing more
glorious?!
But
first, we had our own version of Alaskan pioneering. When we got home Saturday evening, we went
about our normal routine of getting dinner, sorting thru pictures, reading,
etc. As the evening progressed, we felt
cool and turned the thermostat up, a couple of times. Finally, around 10 or 11:00, we realized that
the furnace wasn’t kicking out any hot air.
Bill went outside in the cold air and determined that something was
wrong with the propane tank. There was
nothing to be done but dress warmly as we went to bed and pull up all the
covers, as it was forecast to go down into the low 30’s that night!
In the
morning, there was ice on the picnic table!
And it was mighty chilly inside our little home on wheels. Bill went
first thing to the gas station up the road; they determined immediately what it
was – when the propane tanks were last filled in Palmer, someone hadn’t set
some valve properly, so when the tanks switched over, the 2nd tank
didn’t function. While he was doing
that, I paid $9 for 15 minutes of hot water in the RV park’s shower. Never has a hot shower felt so good!
With that
issue resolved, and the day promising to be beautiful, we headed south on the Parks
Hwy to the Talkeetna/Trapper Creek area, about 150 miles south. We had traveled over this same stretch of
road coming north when we left Palmer.
But it was raining hard, and we couldn’t see a thing on this scenic
highway. So today we were given a chance
to redeem this road trip.
Then, approached Denali State Park, which has entrances right off the highway. This park is best known for its splendid views
of Denali the mountain (or as it’s officially called, Mt. McKinley, even though
virtually all Alaskans just call it Denali, or The Mountain) when it’s clear. It usually has 2 vantage points, one on the
north end of the state park, and the other at the south end. The north one was closed due to highway
repairs. But the southern one was opened. Oh Wow - what a spectacular sight. There is one viewing area right off the
parking lot, when you drive in from the highway, which is handicapped
accessible; then there’s a very short trail ascending to another viewpoint. We stayed for probably an hour-and-a-half
here, just luxuriating in the spectacular views and the warm sun, and of course
taking pictures.
We finally tore ourselves away and drove a little further
down the road to the village of Trapper Creek, where we went into the quaint, friendly
little inn & café and got delicious
burgers and cole slaw.
This was our
turn-around point. So now we were driving
north, savoring the views that we should have experienced a few days ago when
we drove this. We drove on a little side
road just past the café, where we’d read there was another view of The Mountain. I don’t think we found the exact place the
guidebooks talked about, but did find a great view of it on some private
property with a little pond in front, and a clearing in the trees. Wonder how much the modest house built there
would bring with that view!
Stopped
again at Mile 135 at Denali State Park to see Denali, this time in the evening
light and deepening shadows. Fewer
people there this time. But among those
who were there was an Asian or Native American couple who were on their
honeymoon, and he was photographing his bride in her wedding dress against
Denali.
As we
continued our drive home, The Mountain would occasionally appear right before
us on the highway, beckoning and guiding us to the National Park. What an absolutely gorgeous dan trip. Never to be forgotten.
Monday:
Having heard
that the weather forecast was for another perfectly glorious day on Monday,
much like Sunday, we’d decided to take the bus tour again on Monday. Debated some about how much sense it made to
re-do that entire bus trip. But finally
reasoned that it would be our only chance to see the interior of Denali Nat’l
Park on a clear sunny day. Are we ever glad we made that decision! What a fabulous ride it was! Same route, same stops, same bus - but an entirely different experience, with
magnificent views not only of Denali itself, but of the entire Alaskan Range throughout
the Park.
Trying on antlers for size at a rest stop:
First view of Denali deep inside the Park:
After spending some time there, we caught another bus and returned to Eielson. Bill & I hadn’t eaten lunch, so we were pretty hungry by now (about 3:00). Soaked in the sunshine and the views on the deck of the Visitors Center there. How amazingly different from our stop here 3 days ago . . . we hadn’t even realized that this lovely deck and picnic area were here!
Trying on antlers for size at a rest stop:
First view of Denali deep inside the Park:
The viewpoints were especially intoxicating at the
Eielson Visitor Center, where we marveled at the newly-frosted mountain higher
peaks in front of us contrasting with the darker multi-colored mountains below
them. That was new snow, dumped as a
result of the very storm that was doing its work on Friday when we were
here. Ironically serendipitous!
And of course the views of Denali itself were just breath-taking.
After this first stop at Eielson, we continued
down to Wonder Lake. Several of us opted
to leave this bus at this point, and hike a little ways to Reflection
Pond.
After spending some time there, we caught another bus and returned to Eielson. Bill & I hadn’t eaten lunch, so we were pretty hungry by now (about 3:00). Soaked in the sunshine and the views on the deck of the Visitors Center there. How amazingly different from our stop here 3 days ago . . . we hadn’t even realized that this lovely deck and picnic area were here!
What a wonderful country, where areas of amazing and spectacular natural beauty are set aside for ordinary people like us to enjoy and treasure them!
We walked a very short little trail here which takes
you around the tundra. Even the
relatively barren tundra was lovely today, its fall colorings looking rich and
warm in the sunshine.
To top
off a perfectly enchanting day, our wildlife sightings were mostly of bears
(and one close-up elk) – the animal of
course which we had hoped to see here, and hadn’t thus far. The icing on the cake!
Two days of Denali National Park, and her showpiece
Mountain, at their absolute finest. Thank
you, Lord, for this wonderful gift. And,
again, we appreciated these days even more for their relative rarity. One great benefit to us with having
experienced both rain and sunshine on these 2 bus trips is that we got to experience
all that the Eielson Center had to offer – the wonderful indoor presentations,
as well as the splendid, artful outdoor space.
If we had only taken the one bus trip when it had been sunny, we likely
never would have ventured inside to see that wonderful exhibit on climbing
McKinley, and the enlightening talks with the Rangers.
Didn’t
get back to the main Visitors Center area til 8:00. And not home til after 8:30. Pappy was such a good boy – he really needed
to go potty, evidenced by his letting go immediately as soon as Bill took him to the
dog walk. But he held it til we got
home.
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