WEDNESDAY,
AUGUST 21:
Saw large
patches of blue sky when we awoke! Were
so buoyed by this sight, that we called a flight-seeing vendor in nearby Healy
(of the 4 vendors authorized to land in the Nat’l Park, all but this one are
based in Talkeetna, 3 hours away). We booked
an afternoon flight for their Glacier Landing tour.
Then went
into the Park. Perused both the
Wilderness Access Center, where they have info on the various bus tours which
take you deep into Denali (no private vehicles allowed past the 15 mile
marker), and the Visitors Center. Both
had lots of helpful info, and excellent films.
The one at the Visitors Center, especially, was superb – hardly any
narration, just sublime footage of the Park in the changing seasons.
We couldn’t
help but notice that if we turned in one direction, the skies were completely
grey and clouded over; in the other direction, like our morning view, large
pieces of beautiful blue sky. We’d heard multiple times by now that the
weather can- and does – change almost hourly in Denali, and that one area might
be rainy, while 50 miles down the Park Road, it might be sunny. The vast mountain peaks and valleys create
their own weather systems. Knowing all
that, we wondered what it would mean for our scheduled flightseeing trip. It was pricey, and we certainly didn’t want
it to be a second-rate experience. So we
drove up to the Healy airfield (by now it was 1:30 or so), where our vendor was
located. We just honestly asked what the
visibility etc. looked like for this afternoon’s flight and if we should
re-schedule. One of the pilots had just
returned from a tour and said that we’d be touring the North Face, because that
was where the skies were clear. He
showed us on a relief map how the “bad” weather often gets trapped on the
Southern face, and that’s what we were seeing today. He enthusiastically said that the North face
trip should be beautiful. He showed us how we’d get really close to Mt. McKinley’s
north face (as well as its sister peaks).
However, there are no landings
permitted on the North face – it’s the protected wilderness area of the Park; all
of the permissible glacier landings are on the South face, and that’s where the
bad weather was. So no glacier landing. We talked it over, and
decided to go with it. Who knows if
there’d be another opportunity as good as this one? And they adjusted the price.
So we
drove the 10-15 minutes home, got a PB&J, and waited for the tour van to
pick us up. There were several other
parties in the van – about a dozen or so people besides us. When we got to the airfield, they explained
that we’d be taking 2 separate planes – one with 10 passengers, and the other
with 8. We ended up going with Clay, the
pilot who had talked with us earlier.
What another wonderful mountain-top experience (pun
intended)! The first third or so of the
flight took us over tundra, glacier-fed rivers,
Our RV Park way down on right hand side (towards back) of the Parks Hwy:
I was a little discouraged when I started to see raindrops on the windshield (I was seated in the c o-pilot’s seat!). But just at that moment, Clay told us, “We’ll go through this rainstorm, and then . . . the beauty will begin to unfold . . .” He wasn’t being over-dramatic. It did! Just magnificent. View after spectacular view. Partial pictures taken out of the window just can’t hold a candle to the real thing.
And then, rising up out of the clouds, with the afternoon sun shining on her, was majestic Mt. McKinley, all 20,000 feet of her. We circled around her for a few minutes. Just awed, jaw-dropping silence, except for the droning of the engine.
As we made a turn toward the west, the sun was almost blinding as it sparkled on the snow-drenched peaks.
But still, after you’ve been up close to the highest
peak on the continent . . . what can compare??
Another foretaste of heaven.
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